7/18/25

Chitina, Alaska

Good morning, my friends. We're in Chitina this morning, which bills itself as the gateway to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. The national park is our sole reason for being here. 

Yesterday was a driving day. If you've been paying attention, then you might remember in my first post from Valdez, I told you we'd missed seeing some of the things the Milepost told us to look out for. And so, as we left Valdez, we kept an eagle eye out for those things. They were just 15 miles out of town. We missed them when we drove in because they were behind us as we drove south. Heading in the other direction, it was easier to spot them.

First...this unfinished railroad tunnel. Here's the story behind it, and the text from this sign was printed in our Milepost.


There's the unfinished tunnel. There was no sign of any railroad tracks.


Just around the bend, this sign. This was also printed in our Milepost.


Zooming in, you can see the original road.


Here, I've just backed up a little to give you a better view of what the place looks like.


We looked high above the river, but we couldn't pick out the pack trail.

Moving on...You might remember I barely caught this tunnel as we sped by on our drive into Valdez.


I got a better picture of it on the way out.


As a reminder, this is what our Milepost told us about this spot.


Okay, and those were the only things I wanted to revisit. From there, we headed on up the dusty trail. I took this next picture to show you the markers for the snow plows. It appears they have some kind of reflectors at the top. Not sure what that's all about.


And we couldn't resist stopping again at this pullout near Thompson Pass. It's just beautiful here, and at a different time of the day, it looked different. The next several images are taken panning left to right.






This next shot impresses me most. Look at that huge crevasse left of center. You can see where the landscape split apart at that point.


Eventually, we reached the intersection with the Edgerton Highway. This was the first new highway we traveled on our day of driving. As my mother would have said, there goes the road.


Not too far down the road, we stopped at this viewpoint to take in the expansive view of the Copper River.


Looking west, we could see this:


Looking in the other direction, we saw this:


We saw plenty of fireweed growing here, and we also saw these berries. Wild raspberries is my guess.


Here's what the Milepost told us about this area:


We didn't find a good place to get a picture of the mountains, but I did take this one of Mt. Wrangell. I've edited out some structures at the bottom of the image below. Look just above the tree line and to the right of center. There is a flat-top mountain there with clouds overhead. At over 14,000 feet, it’s a big boy, but with its domed shape, it doesn’t look as tall.


We made our way to our RV park. After getting set up, eating some lunch, and taking our naps, we headed five miles into the tiny town of Chitina. Here's what our Milepost tells us about Chitina.



There's the hotel.


And there's the Spirit Mountain Artworks.


We drove on down to the ranger station for Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. It was closed, and the only information we could find was on the sign posted to the left of the structure. We suspect it was closed because of DOGE cuts. Just sayin’.


Here's what our Milepost tells us about the ranger station.


Ed S. Orr was the superintendent of Orr Stage. You can read information about him and his stage line right here. It's worth a look. Interesting history about the area.

We drove just a few miles down McCarthy Road. It's always a thrill driving through a single-lane road like this:


Coming out the other side, we crossed the bridge over the Copper River. And if you like salmon, you know that the best salmon comes from right here.


Looking west, it looks like this:


Looking east, it looks like this:


Just past the river, we came to this sign. The road to McCarthy is notoriously rough. The sign at the ranger station told us to expect a 3-hour journey (both ways) to travel the 60 miles. Also, the sign says it all.


We turned around there, and we'll give it a try today. I have serious doubts about whether we can make it to McCarthy. We'll go until we've had enough of the rough road (we're not into self-flagellation), and then turn around and return to the camper. 

As we headed back to the camper, we were able to see something else mentioned in our Milepost. This is a fishwheel. The man there was explaining how it works to the younger person to his left.


Here's what the Milepost says about it.


Since I don't know how a fish wheel works, I inquired of The Google. Here's a video that explains it. If you can't see the video, then click right here.


The campground was full last night, and it is supposed to be full for the next two nights. (We're only here for two.) Before other campers arrived, we took advantage of the quiet to get Smitty out for a walk. He was very brave for this walk.


As anyone knows, the grass is always tastier next to the sewer connection.


Okay. So we're packing along some sandwiches and some water and any other life-preserving equipment we might need today. We'll go as far as our rough-road tolerance will take us, and then return later this afternoon. If you're going with us, consider this excellent advice we received while ATVing in Tucson a few years back.

8 comments:

Pamela dempsey said...

Fasten bra straps, remove dentures 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣! What beautiful sights y’all are seeing!

Magpie's Mumblings said...

Good thing you obeyed that sign and told us all where you are going. Law abiding is a good thing.

Annette Schneider said...

Lots of nostalgia...in the 70's and 80's, we would drive our little Toyota pickup from Fairbanks (where we lived) to Chitina in the summer, for salmon dipping. We'd tent camp on the beach for a couple of days. At that time, only Native Alaskans were allowed to use a fish wheel. Dip netting from the banks was very dangerous, as the Copper River is very fast moving. After cleaning, the salmon was cut into thick crosswise steaks and cooked on a barbecue. That salmon was sooo delicious, it didn't taste fishy at all! Thanks for sharing your adventure.

dgs said...

Beautiful. Plus you captured some funny aspects. But I'm totally confused (probably need to talk to Professor Google). You are pretty far north, which took me by surprise as you are at the Wrangell Mountains. But we've been to Wrangell, a small city on the water, which also has mountains (a bit south of Petersburg). I now suspect there are many places in Alaska called Wrangell, so I'm also wondering who was Mr. Wrangell?

BTW - Enjoyed any Spring Salmon yet?

Kristin said...

There are a couple more visitors' centers you can try for. The one on the Richardson Hwy just north of Copper Center (mile 104) is the "main" one. I don't know if it's open, but since the site also houses things like administration offices and maintenance, I would guess yes. They have a wooden fish wheel and some really nice 3D maps of the park. Also, some good mountain views and hiking trails.
The other one is the Slana Ranger Station. Again, I don't know if it is open. Slana is east of the Tok-Cutoff Hwy at mile 0.5 Nabesna Road. I assume you'll take the Tok Cutoff to get from Glennallen back to Tok as you head out of the state.

Sara said...

Those signs are hilarious!!

piecefulwendy said...

Those Thompson Pass views are amazing. The last sign cracked me up!

Kate said...

It truely is amazingly beautiful there. Looking forward to reading about your McCarthy adventure, that last road sign pretty much said it all!